Poland probably isn't the first place you'd think of as a centre of fashion. It probably isn't even the second or third place! But, deep in Eastern Europe a new breed of fashion designer is emerging.
Functional daywear and sports-inspired, grunge chic takes to the catwalks for the Polish and international press to see.
While the thought of eastern European fashion usually conjures up a mental image of Donnay t-shirts, shiny, over-worn sports jackets and double denim, the fashion scene is blossoming, booming in fact, with a host of photographers, stylists and bloggers taking the forefront while street style has also become a very popular phenomenon in Poland. Not to mention the party scene, which is ridiculous... vodka anyone?! (Stereotyping over.)
The designers show improvement over the seasons and many designers that were prominent in the Polish fashion scene a few seasons ago have moved on to bigger fashion capitals such as Berlin and Paris.
My trip this season was slightly shorter than usual but in that time I saw a range of wonderful designers showing classy separates, sport themes and understated chic working in line with trends from around the globe.
MONIKA MRONSKA FOR NORMAN
This menswear collection combined traditional menswear with a range of contemporary ideas.
The first pinstriped suit, double-breasted and incredibly slick, featured neon pinstripes - pulling the traditional ideals into the current times.
Another example of this contrast was a tailored jacket with a wide felt hood that fitted seamlessly into the look as well as beige leather trousers and flashes of metallic glistening stripes.
Single button suits as well as double-breasted jackets owned the collection in a range of fabrics and colours including opalescent blue shiny satin and red moleskin.
Elbow pads, raw edges and visible seams looked effortlessly cool with a grimy undertone contrasting strongly with the dapper tuxedos that closed the collection.
MICHAŁ SZULC
Clearly inspired by American retro high school, the collection opened with a navy varsity jacket emblazoned with a large C, worn with an A-line grey skirt.
Utility style fabrics contrasted with cable knit and corduroy while panels of dog tooth print gave the collection a retro edge.
Wide shorts were worn over skin-tight trousers widening the silhouette dramatically. Waist lines varied between cinched tight waist lines and low-slung hipsters with elasticated gathers and draw strings.
The entire collection worn with Converse trainers used the school theme effectively, accessorising with thick knitted tights, flashes of neon orange and hair worn in a messy bun.
NATALIA JAROSZEWSKA
Faux Leather panels and mixed fabrics were the most prominent themes in this collection. Grey tweed full maxi skirts sat low on the waist under pleated sheer camisoles and used effectively the trendy mullet shape in ruffled skirts.
Knotted crossover-style dresses and jumpsuits were shown, the straps twisted and the look decidedly summery. The use of different textures and fabrics continued with the introduction of fake leather and velvet to the collection in the later stages.
Raw edges and fraying added certain grubbiness to the otherwise quite prim collection. Hanging together well, the collection was not unpleasant but the themes were lost slightly.
AGATA WOJTKIEWICZ
Fingers dipped in liquid latex, this collection showed promise from the start using urban-looking graffiti-style prints.
As has proved popular this season, quilted jackets hanging away from the body were worn with form fitting pencil skirts. Loose T-shirt dresses with oversized pockets were shown in a range of styles - some featuring metallic foil, others looking more functional in a utility style.
The severe black looks were offset by pieces in pastel blue and pink, creating a more feminine look.
Knitwear featured towards the end of the collection - grey jumpers slashed at the shoulders continued the edgy vibe. Final pieces featured silver metallic foil on quilted pencil skirts with flashes of neon pink also making an appearance.
MMC STUDIO
The MMC show finished the day at Poland Fashion Week and the runway was decorated with a bare tree to add to the autumnal feeling. The collection had three defined sections which allowed themes to become obvious.
The first section showed a very functional sensible set of outfits in black, white and grey. Murky colours that fitted with the discordant music. Quilted puffer jackets and padded coats with wide open hoods featured as well as sharper monochrome jackets with wide stark lapels - many pieces still playing on the trend of using exposed seams and raw edges - sport themes satisfied with low-rise leather trousers and tapered hems.
The second section opened with shaggy brown fur and knee-high boots featuring a more colourful palette of gold, turquoise maroon and browns. Trousers strongly used two trend-based shapes- the wide legged cuffed trouser leg that has recently become more popular and then the cropped cigarette pant that has also remains a firm favourite on the catwalk.
The final section was clearly the party section. Opalescent green and black sequins covered jumpers, baggy trousers and dresses with sheer elements added throughout.
The show was closed with a cameo by the face of MMC's advertising and patron to rapturous applause.
KAMILA GAWROŃSKA - KASPERSKA
This collection was accompanied by dramatic choral music. The first outfits with an air of the Orient. Waterfall jackets in silk with printed cross motif in scarlet and white. The cinched waists led to wide, A-line skirts - the pieces also showing interesting structural elements with high severe neck lines and large stiff hoods contrasting strongly with smooth shaped lapels and jacket tails also cut into similarly smooth, curved shapes.
Sheer panels were cut into fabric creating delicate windows to flesh while remaining true to strong religious themes which were epitomised in an outfit featuring a skin-tight skull cap.
The collection was stark, clean and beautiful. The more wearable items included caped jackets with femininely rounded shoulders, low-rise cigarette pants and drop-crotch trousers. This collection was accompanied by dramatic church music.
GROME DESIGN
This versatile collection centred on a colour palette of black, white and taupe. Panelled blouses tucked into tailored cigarette pants thrown together with blazers and bold jackets. Lapels were wide and pointed; even collars on shirts were elongated in a slightly retro style.
Panels of black and white gave way to scratchy prints, the casual fabrics contrasting with square-structured sleeves. Following the casual street themes, waists were elasticated and peeped from flowing tunic shirts. Severe necklines added an element of smart workwear or uniform to this collection.
Wide flowing trouser legs were shown, fighting away from the safer cigarette style that has been incredibly popular globally in the last few seasons. Trousers also featured lapel-like waist bands, some pairs were even see-through and finally the last throws of this collection featured panels of sheer, nude chiffon.
Layering was key in this collection and from bold structuring, tailored jackets and just the right level of casual cool the looks were entirely wearable. The collection ended with a white trouser suit and a huge tulle ruff like overlay.
KĘDZIOREK
Opening with a black sequinned collar this collection was mainly grey, black and brown, staying firmly in the muted colour palette that is favoured by winter collections. Cape layers and batwing sleeves widened the silhouette of this very wearable collection while fur jackets to the thigh added a little bit of glamour. Wide billowing jersey jackets were worn with bias cut, rouched tops with scooping, hung neck lines.
Cutouts in the arm have become popular in the last seasons and this collection used this feature well, combined with low-set, wide sleeves. Start cotton contrasted with pleated sheer mesh and casually draped jersey and fleece. Hemlines sat conservatively on the knee, the raw edges hinting at a less conservative muse. Trousers were loose and featured a lowered crotch – another trend globally this season.
Tones moved from grey into khaki tones and cream and lace layers were used over wool. Sequins appeared in loose t-shirt dresses, patterned beautifully and styled with fur and the casually low-slung trousers. The collection featured elements of ‘uniform’ themes which have been seen through many collections.
WIOLA WOŁCZYŃSKA
The styling in this collection seemed very European and followed many trends this season. The hair was wild and tamed only by wide brimmed hats.
Severe two-piece suits in linear grey opened the collection, the wide tailored lapels looking every part the school teacher, skirts split at the front and collars rising up the throat. A jacket featured a bubble skirt over the top with an elasticated waist. Padded jackets were worn with tailored trousers that were pleated at the hip in a very masculine style.
Gun metal sequins added a touch of feminine glamour to the collection while wide-legged trousers were added to with panels of black to break up the grey.
Cuffs, collars and peplums were cut into with a square design, creating an interesting shape and modernising the collection further. The utility themes were clear throughout this collection. Understated flashes of orange and salmon with navy and grey tweed were worked through garments as a welcome relief from grey. Peplum tops were worn with the androgynous trousers that featured throughout, while fur adorned shoulders and panels of jackets. Final pieces of this collection were beautiful maroon jackets with patent black outer pockets and a maroon pinafore dress.
ROKSOLANA BOGUTSKA – SPECIAL GUEST – CLOSING SHOW
This final show was much anticipated. The Ukrainian designer’s heritage could be seen in the opulent catwalk collection.
Sheer, chiffon dresses in navy with intricate rust bohemian prints were styled with patent leather jackets and belts. Pussy-bow blouses peeped from below pinafore style dresses that fell to below the knee. Patent leather with plaited piping gave way to opulent gold embellishment, bling-tastic appliqué and almost military-inspired severe high collars, reminiscent of the Russian upper classes.
Black velvet was used throughout this collection with other heavier fabrics that held the bold, gold embellishments. Detailed belts cinched waists of gold foil, printed dresses oozing femininity.
Outerwear was similarly luxurious, textured black fur with sandy gold fur collars were also belted at the waist, contrasting with the wide shoulders. Silver-blue fur and maroon were shown in this section of the collection, interrupted but more casual dresses in similar tones, still featuring overly sparkling jewellery and detailed belts.
Satin blouses and skirts began to interrupt the fur outerwear before the jackets and coats were discarded entirely and in its place we saw beautifully printed blouses, neck scarves and more androgynous tunic shirts with flared trousers. Finally light, satin dresses featuring traditional cross-stitched belts and shoulder pieces as well as the traditional bohemian prints.
The collection closed with a stunning white maxi dress adorned with tiny details. The collection clearly took a lot of influence from the traditional Ukrainian costume and this was seen through prints, colours and mainly through the cross-stitch-like detailing in belts and accessories.
That’s another season over!
Here’s to the spring/summer shows kicking off in a few months’ time!
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