BALANS is worth a try if you’re in a party with diverse tastes. Or if you don’t fancy queuing for Peri Peri chicken.

While hungry punters were lined up for the ever-popular Nando’s and Gourmet Burger Kitchen on the weeknight I went with my girlfriend, Laura, there were plenty of seats to spare at Balans in Bluewater’s newly-opened Plaza.

That is probably best explained by its newness – this is its eight UK restaurant and it has three in Miami.

An enthusiastic smile greeted us and we were shown to a cosy booth. Well, it would have been cosy if it was not for the excited throngs pouring out of Glow, Bluewater’s even newer events venue.

Perhaps the seating could be better closed off for more comfort?

At first glance, the menu appears to cover all bases. The restaurant does breakfast, lunch, dinner and even a vast range of cocktails, with an attractive bar.

For my money, the range is more all over the place. The main courses oscillate from seafood jambalaya (£13.95) to burgers (£10.95) to Thai curry (£10.95) to crab linguine (£14.75) to rib-eye steak (£22.95), and so on.

Perhaps it would be a good location for a first date. I’m sure you could learn a lot more about your date from what she chooses at Balans than at Toby Carvery.

The starters are just as chaotic. I opted for shredded duck spring rolls (£5.95) which were served with cucumber ribbons and hoi sin sauce. They were nice. My crab linguine main was also nice.

And therein lies both the quality and limitations. They were fine – tasty even – but not remarkable.

On the other hand, Laura’s crab cakes (£6.50) with mango papaya salsa and chipotle remoulade were crispy on the outside, soft and moist on the inside and utterly delicious.

Similarly, her sea bass with crushed new potatoes, wilted spinach and chive butter (£15.95) was a revelation. It look like it could have come straight from a magazine.

The spinach and potatoes combined well, the fish was beautifully cooked and the sauce was moreish and smooth - a definite recommendation.

Desserts, again, were good but unremarkable.

Although the prices are a trifle high and some of the food lacks spark, Balans is a pleasure to eat at – and you won’t have to queue.